Few ingredients in perfumery carry quite the mystique of oud. Often described as ‘black gold’, this rare and precious wood has an extraordinary depth, revealing smoky, animalic, honeyed, floral and even fruity facets depending on its origin and treatment.
For Francis Kurkdjian, oud has long represented something more than simply another ingredient. It is a material with history, complexity and an almost instinctive sensuality — qualities that have made it central to his exploration of contemporary French perfumery.
His fascination with oud began to take a more definitive form in 2012, when he introduced a distinctive interpretation of the material into the fragrance wardrobe of Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Rather than attempting to reproduce the traditional Eastern interpretation of oud, Kurkdjian sought to explore its rougher, more sensual characteristics through the lens of a Parisian perfumer.
That philosophy has since developed into the Maison’s OUD collection, where the richness of oud is explored through the language of texture and fabric.
OUD silk mood introduced the crispness of raw silk, while OUD satin mood explored the fluidity and sensuality of satin. Now, OUD velvet mood turns its attention to something softer, warmer and more tactile: velvet.
From the Desert to the Bottle
The inspiration behind OUD velvet mood comes from an unexpected place: the desert landscapes of Liwa in the United Arab Emirates.
During a visit to the region, Kurkdjian was struck by the vastness of the landscape — endless horizons, shifting dunes and the extraordinary contrast between the scale of the desert and the intimate, tactile quality of the sand beneath his feet.
It was this contrast that became the starting point for the fragrance.
The idea is not to recreate the smell of the desert literally, but rather to capture its sensation. Warmth. Softness. Texture. Skin. Movement.
OUD velvet mood therefore takes the powerful character of oud and surrounds it with softer, more tactile elements, creating a fragrance that feels less like a traditional interpretation of oud and more like an exploration of its sensual side.
At its heart, the fragrance combines the raw character of oud wood with a textured peach note, introducing a subtle sweetness and unexpected brightness. Osmanthus brings leathery and apricot nuances, while a supple suede accord adds to the impression of warm skin.
The result is an oud that feels contemporary rather than austere — rich and enveloping, but with an almost intimate quality.
What makes OUD velvet mood particularly interesting is the way Kurkdjian continues to reinterpret a historically significant ingredient through a distinctly French perspective.
Oud has deep cultural roots across the Middle East and Asia and has become increasingly prominent within Western fragrance over recent decades. Yet rather than simply adopting its traditional codes, Kurkdjian treats it as raw material to be explored, balanced and transformed.
That approach is central to his wider creative philosophy: bringing together exceptional ingredients from around the world and shaping them through the discipline, refinement and heritage of French perfumery.
In OUD velvet mood, the contrast between rough and soft becomes the defining characteristic. The intensity of oud meets peach, osmanthus and suede, creating something that is both powerful and intimate.
It is perhaps best understood not simply as another oud fragrance, but as an exercise in texture.
Where silk glides and satin flows, velvet invites you to touch it. And that sense of touch is ultimately what OUD velvet mood seeks to capture — the warmth of sun-soaked sand, the softness of skin and the sensuality of something experienced slowly rather than simply observed.
For those already familiar with Francis Kurkdjian’s work, it represents another chapter in his continuing exploration of oud. For anyone discovering the material for the first time, it offers a more contemporary and tactile introduction to one of perfumery’s most intriguing ingredients.













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“Shine had a moment for years, but matte is what men are asking for now. It reads as more grown-up and less try-hard. I’ve changed what I reach for on the finishing side because of it.”
“There’s a real confidence coming through around colour this season, nothing subtle about it. I’m not seeing men asking for anything too extreme just yet, but there’s definitely more openness to it generally, whether that’s a client wanting to cover grey with more warmth, or someone genuinely wanting to experiment for the first time.”
“This continues to be one of the biggest men’s hairstyle trends this season, thanks to its effortless movement, natural texture, and versatility. With soft layers and a relaxed finish, it suits a wide range of hair types and can be styled casually for everyday wear or refined for a more polished look. It’s the perfect choice for anyone wanting a modern hairstyle that looks stylish without trying too hard.”
“Braiding has become a real point of interest this season, and it’s a good reminder to clients that texture and detail aren’t off limits for men. It’s not something everyone will take to the barbershop, but it’s opened up more conversations about texture work generally.”
“There’s been a shift away from razor-sharp, high-contrast fades towards something softer and more blended. It’s a small technical change, but it changes the whole feel of a cut. Combined with more length on top, it’s giving men a much softer, more natural overall shape than we were seeing a couple of years ago.”
“Whatever’s driving the trends this season, the real priority for most men walking into a barbershop is still ease. And this season is actually good news on that front. Natural texture and softer fades genuinely need less daily effort than the sharp, sculpted looks that were popular before. It’s a season where looking current and looking after yourself line up.”


